This Mankiller Tour began eons ago, in February, with a small huddle of expats and curious Mexica, a crackling sound system and doubtful, generous Buddhists, riven pilgrims, end-of-the-road outcasts, trollers of purpose to go with their days, all of us gathered under the mantle, the flayed-open cordillera of Morellos, under the unvanquished Aztec pyramid...

These particular days and and nights prompt me - as they do many - toward darkness and silence. This comes with the territory if you are to the boreal born, as I am. I'm prone to these twins of December. I don't mean I like them, particularly. I love them, but they aren't easy...